Old town, Laisvės alėja, the Ninth Fort & the KGB bunker
Kaunas was Lithuania's provisional capital between the wars, and it still feels like a city with something to prove. The old town sits where the Neman and Neris rivers meet, and the whole centre is walkable in a day — but the two sites that matter most here are heavy going, so do not try to cram everything into one.
The classic walk starts at Kaunas Castle, crosses Rotušės aikštė, then runs the length of Laisvės alėja — a long pedestrian boulevard — to the Neo-Byzantine Church of St. Michael the Archangel at the far end. Kauno Spurginė, an institution selling traditional savoury doughnuts, is on the way and worth the queue.
The Ninth Fort is a nineteenth-century fortress that became a Nazi execution site where tens of thousands of Jewish people were murdered. It is essential to understanding the region and it is not a casual stop; allow at least two hours. The KGB Atomic Bunker is a private museum that is not walk-in — you must email ahead to arrange a tour, and it is cash only.
On eating: Kaunas has no Michelin star, but it does have Nüman — a Bib Gourmand, and winner of Michelin's 2026 Service Award — plus DIA and SIJA in the Guide's Main Selection. For a city this size that is a strong showing, and all three are far easier to get a table at than their Vilnius equivalents.
Kaunas Airport is Lithuania's main budget-airline hub, which makes this a practical arrival point for the Neman Riviera as well — Tauragė is about 1.5 to 2 hours west.
Places we would actually book ourselves.
A small, quirky, well-reviewed hotel with genuine character — about 15–20 minutes' walk from the centre. Note the front-door entry system has tripped up some guests; make sure you get your access code before arrival.
A central, dependable chain hotel — can get street noise on busy nights, but reliable, with its own parking and a good breakfast.
The most polished international hotel in Kaunas, on Donelaičio gatvė in the centre and an easy walk to Laisvės alėja. Worth setting expectations honestly: Kaunas has no genuine five-star hotels, and this is the closest the city comes — a very good four-star rather than a luxury property. Consistently strong reviews for service and an unusually generous breakfast.
A design-led small hotel by the river just outside the old town, industrial-minimal but warm — Booking.com guests rate it 9.2, among the highest in Kaunas. Officially 3-star, so expect style rather than facilities. Self check-in, own parking at the rear with an EV charger, and the airport bus stops about 40m from the door.
Restaurants, cafés and bakeries worth the detour.
A friendly bistro in a building thick with history, and winner of Michelin's 2026 Service Award. Reviews are strong overall though not unanimous — the duck and the warmth of the room draw the most praise. Closed Sunday and Monday.
A genuine Kaunas institution, unchanged for decades — simple, cheap, warm doughnuts (spurgos) and savoury pastries. Cash only. Expect a queue that moves fast.
A small, cosy specialty coffee spot hidden down an alley — excellent Basque cheesecake, good sandwiches, dog-friendly, and a nice quiet place to sit with a book.
One of the best-reviewed restaurants in Kaunas — modern, elegant, and consistently excellent across starters, mains and the bread basket. Featured in the Michelin Guide (Main Selection, not starred). Book ahead, especially for dinner.
Opened only in late 2025 by chef-owner Rokas Vasiliauskas and his partner Greta Rutkauskaitė, and already won the Michelin Guide's 2026 Opening of the Year Award (Main Selection, not starred). Modern Lithuanian cooking rooted in the chef's own childhood and heritage. Open Wednesday–Saturday evenings only; book well ahead.
Beaches, parks, viewpoints and walks.
The classic Kaunas walk: start at the Town Hall Square, head up the long pedestrian boulevard Laisvės alėja — Kauno Spurginė is right along it — and finish at the striking Neo-Byzantine Church of St. Michael the Archangel.
A short, cheap (€1, cash only) funicular ride up to a viewpoint over the Old Town and both rivers — or take the 266 steps if it's not running. Illy coffee machine at the top.
What happened here, and what is left to see.
A genuinely fascinating private museum — but note it isn't a walk-in site: you need to email ahead to arrange a tour, and there's an extra fee if you want a private group. Packed with real Soviet-era memorabilia and a knowledgeable guide.
A 19th-century fortress that became a Nazi execution site — tens of thousands of Jewish people from Kaunas and across Europe were killed here. A sobering, essential visit for understanding the region's WWII history, not a casual stop.
One of Lithuania's oldest brick castles, at the meeting point of the Nemunas and Neris rivers — a small site, comfortably seen in 20–30 minutes, but a pretty spot regardless.
A working distillery museum inside the historic Stumbras factory (founded 1906, Lithuania's oldest and largest spirits producer) — a guided tour through the history of Lithuanian drinking culture, with tastings. The factory space also occasionally hosts the Kaunas Biennial art event.
A large, well-known manor estate famous for its flower displays and history tours — genuinely impressive, though it's roughly 1.5 hours north of Kaunas, not a quick add-on. Some reviews flag it as pricey with limited dining options on site, so plan around that rather than expecting a full restaurant.
This is one of four regions covered. The interactive map and the ready-made itineraries cover all of them together.